A land mostly depicted by golden-sand beaches where children run like wild things towards the shore, empty nesters savour cones of raspberry ripple from striped deckchairs and curly-haired surfers glide across sapphire waters. But there is so much more to Cornwall waiting to be discovered. A land whose storybook woodlands, deep valleys and beautifully-barren moorlands are yearning to tell their stories too. As we approach Morwell, a milk-white, 400-year-old farmhouse quietly enveloped by soaring evergreens beside its own private slice of river in the Tamar Valley, all-familiar visions of sandy toes and salty skin quickly melt away.
Bounding down the dusty farm track to Morwell is one of those journeys you don’t forget. Sinking deeper and deeper into the fir-lined valley until walls of green are all that can be seen. And then, suddenly, the secret, old stone manor rears its pretty head from behind a bend. This is the quintessence of a countryside farmhouse: wibbly walls revealing honest craftsmanship from times gone by, a roof of seal-grey Cornish slate and a wide, arched doorway opening to well-trodden flagstone tiles.
City dwellers, with owner Chris being a pioneering robotic surgeon in London, finding a haven in which their family could completely escape and unwind in was important to them. “We searched for around ten years to find Morwell,” his wife Jo notes. “We fell in love with its old bones, and its beautiful position within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.” But homes with history often come with a challenge, and so the family of four put up in an aluminium airstream in the garden as they awaited listed building consent.
“We worked with conservation architects and builders,” she adds “with the intention of restoring the property to its original simplicity and functionality as a Cornish farmhouse.” The restoration took around two years, and they achieved their targets with great success. Entering Morwell feels as though you’re stepping into a Dickens book – with stone open hearths taking centre stage in the living spaces, a farmhouse kitchen complete with window seats overlooking the garden and original beamed ceilings in the four bedrooms – whilst maintaining a London edge with colourful, contemporary furniture choices. The look is perfectly reflective of their city-cum-country dual lives.
The blue sky and flora-scented breeze calls through open windows, so it's outside to explore the 50-acre garden. “When we purchased the house, we removed all the non-native trees like eucalyptus and conifers to create light around the property. Instead, opting to plant over 100 different heritage fruit trees including mulberry, damson, quince, walnut, apple and pear,” Jo and Chris note. In addition to the orchard, three walled gardens surround Morwell – filled with seasonal vegetables, Cornish Black beehives and flowers from old English roses to lily of the valley; peonies to camelias. As well as a 20-metre natural swimming pool and lawn for croquet and badminton. “The natural setting truly is spellbinding”, they explain, perhaps somewhat unnecessarily, as the humble garden reveals its majesty to you the second you open the back door.
With a pontoon that reaches onto their own private stretch of the tidal River Tamar, they share some of their wildlife encounters: “We’ve been lucky enough to spot kingfishers, otters and peregrine falcons here by the water. We also have cows that are born and bred on the land, and rare-breed Balwen sheep that lamb in the spring.” Those fortunate enough to stay at Morwell can take advantage of its unique waterside position, enjoying picnics by the river’s edge or fresh dips in summertime. Onto the wetland meadows and then the bluebell woodland, Jo and Chris touch on the abundance of other produce available to scrump and forage here – from wild garlic to blackberries – painting a glorious image of the bucolic lifestyle they have fashioned for themselves when leaving the concrete jungle behind.
“To us, this is heaven. An unspoilt, forgotten corner of Cornwall.” Things to occupy yourself with at Morwell are limitless; be it making apple pie with windfalls in the country kitchen or swimming in the glassy pool at sunset; adorning windowsills with garden peonies or sipping elderflower Champagne in the vintage bathtub. With not a beach in sight. Yes, it's easy to love Cornwall for its tropical coastlines and pretty harbour villages, but isn’t it time we gave it credit, too, for these slices of undiscovered paradise right beneath our noses?
Feeling inspired? Discover our collection of the best places to stay in Cornwall, peruse our secret garden escapes, or read our guide to homes with edible gardens.
